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Take me to Nirvana.

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8689 Wilshire Boulevard, Beverly Hills, 310-657-5040 | nirvanabeverlyhills.com | Indian and world fusion cuisine | full bar | $25-$60 per person

Chef Ramanuj Sahai talks about love and food.

Upon entering Nirvana restaurant in Beverly Hills, one is instantly intoxicated by the rhythmic sounds of world music, ambient lighting and seductive aromas of lamb and shellfish—marinated in or delicately rubbed with Indian spices and heating patiently in charcoal-fired tandoori ovens.

Kama Sutra images—ancient illustrations of jeweled and bare breasted women, poised with male counterparts in orgasm inducing positions—appear on the menu, in statue form and on an exquisite custom crafted gold-laced guitar suspended against the wall. The spiritual majesty of a koi pond and massive Siddhartha head reminds patrons that while innocence can be lost at Nirvana, it can also be regained.

Proprietor Deep Sethi, also owner of Bombay Palace across the street from this sultry refuge, is the genius behind Nirvana’s sensual flair while executive chef Ramanuj Sahai adds mastery to its exotic fare. RealTALK LA spoke with Sahai, a New Delhi native and former chef at culinary notables like Tamarind in New York.

How does eating at Nirvana enhance the bond between lovers?

When the food is good, it satisfies the soul. The person becomes healthier so he or she can think about his or her life. When people come to Nirvana, they sit in a relaxed manner and are involved with each other. They become fulfilled in all ways—that is Nirvana.

What is it about your cooking that inspires love and sensuality?

As a Brahman, which is an Indian religion, I bring my meditation and mantras into my cooking. When I put all of my love, spirituality and connection to my God into my work, the food becomes amazing. It has power.

Tell us about the new menu.

One of our new appetizers is the Fish Amritsari. Amritsar is a holy place in India where the Punjabis worship all the time. The Punjabis start every meal with this dish, a river center bonefish that’s crispy and seasoned with garam masala—a blend of 13 different ground spices. The Punjabis enjoy this dish with Indian whiskey, which we also serve at Nirvana.

What’s new?

We’ve added about eight or nine fish entrées, including Patrani Machi—a delicacy of the Parsi people from Iran. We cook the fish in banana leaves so a special aroma goes into it. We marinate the in fresh coconut, cilantro and garlic and, for plating, we cover the fish and vegetables in banana leaves.

How does the new menu inspire romance?

This menu is a new chapter for Nirvana. When lovers come—husbands, wives, boyfriends and girlfriends—they’re filled with good energy. When I meet them, I see I’ve made a positive impact. I tell them that in India, when two people marry, they commit to being together for seven lives. There’s no such thing as divorce. And when they come here, they are one.

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Johnnie's Pastrami

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4017 Sepulveda Blvd., Culver City, 310-397-6654 | Down-home pastrami joint | $$ per person | Full review appears in Hungry? Los Angeles ... family edition

Dip this.

A lot’s changed since Harry S. Truman was United States President. But, for the most part, Johnnie’s Pastrami has stayed the same. Hallelujah. What else can you ask for from a down-home, pastrami sandwich and burger joint, which—since 1952—has served God knows how many pounds of tender and juicy pastrami, dipped generously in its classic and famous French dip?

No pretenses here. If the expression “hole-in-the-wall” seems overused, we need to use it once more to refer to Johnnie’s. At this widely appreciated, artery-clogging joint, it’s come one, come all for pastrami, hot dogs, chili cheese fries, burgers, crunchy tacos, fried chicken and so on and so on.

The lunch crowd is probably the truest indication of the clientele Johnnie’s attracts, which is just about anyone under the sun. Men and women in suits, parents and kids in T-shirts and shorts, blue-collar workers in jeans and Nomex, and groovy young Hollywood types in fashion wear with tattoos and piercings. What they obviously share in common is the humble, inner-city feel that accompanies the sinfully filling food.

Inside, each table has a jukebox, as does the center counter, where one is placed in front of every other seat.

While places like Johnny Rockets or Ruby’s work hard to simulate the 1950s diner feel, Johnnie’s is really that. All you need to do is observe the vintage flooring, counter tops and brown vinyl booths to be convinced. At night, they dim the lights and spark up the fire pits in the patio, creating a new ambience to satisfy a late night, post-party craving.

While you can smoke outside, you’ll want to leave your pets at home. There’s plenty of traffic and bus noise to remind you you’re in old school LA and with Johnnie’s being somewhat close to LAX, it’s a great stop-and-eat spot for people who either just landed or are getting ready to take off.

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